TAMP THE SUBBASE using a flat-plate vibrator (rented at $40 a day). Work in a circular motion and compact the area twice.

INSTALL THE EDGING on the tamped subbase using 12 in. spikes. Cut the webbing on the edging's back side to make it flex for curves.

Will your yard accommodate the slope and size of your patio? Will a square patio end in nice, full pavers or skinny little slivers?

With your graph paper plan in hand, lay down garden hose (Photo 1) and 2x4s to form an outline of your patio. Use your level and straight 2x4 to double-check the lay of the land for proper slope. Then spray-paint a line 8 in. outside the outline of your patio to act as a line for excavating. Strip away the sod at this point (Photo 2), so grass doesn't get in the way of the guide strings you'll soon be setting up.

INSTALL LNADSCAPE TIMBERS for edging in areas where you need to change levels or step down. Be certain to overlap corners.

EXCAVATING THE SITE AND BUILDING THE BASE

This part of the project is the key to a successful (and long-lasting) patio.

Use the bottom of a door or a set of stairs abutting the patio area as the starting point for establishing the final height and slope of your patio. Your entire slab should slope away from the house at a rate of 1 in. every 4 to 8 ft. This slope may be one long decline or a slight dome-shape so water runs off in more than one direction. Place one end of a long 2x4 at the bottom of the stairway or an inch below the door threshold, then level across to stakes driven at the perimeter of the patio and make a mark (Photo 3). Make another mark the appropriate distance down the stake to indicate the slope. In our case, after making a level mark on our stake with a level and 12 ft. 2x4, we made another mark 2 in. down to indicate a slope of 2 in. for that 12 ft. (1 in. for every 6 ft.).

SPREAD AND LEVEL a 1 in. bed of sand over compacted subbase. Pipes provide a guide for dragging the 2x4 screed board across.