|
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
offer crushed gravel or another suitable substitute. The class 5 we used cost us around $100 (7 cubic yards at $7.50 per yard plus a $50 delivery charge). One cubic yard of class 5, when placed 4 in. deep, will cover 81 sq. ft. If you need to build up an area, order more. Coarse sand for leveling and bedding the pavers ran $15 a cubic yard, plus delivery. One yard of sand will provide a 1-in. base for about 300 sq. ft. of patio. Order a little extra for sweeping into the cracks when you finish (our patio consumed about four 5-gal. buckets of sand for this). |
USE A LEVEL, a 2x4 and stakes to determine the slope of the patio. Slope of 1 in. per 4 to 8 ft. away from house is ideal. Run stakes and a grid of string to mark the top of finished patio, then excavate 7-1/2 in. below strings. |
|
For tools, you'll use everyday hammers, levels and tape measures as well as big, oddball tools like a flat-plate vibrator and a masonry saw that you'll need to rent ($40 to $50 each per day). With proper planning, you shouldn't need to rent either tool for more than two whole or half days. All the materials and rental charges for our project came to $1,900. That's a lot! But when you consider pros charge between $6 and $10 per sq. ft. when they supply and install pavers, you'll see you're saving 1/2 to 2/3 the cost by doing it yourself. PLANNING AND LAYOUT The first thing you should think about is where the last paver you lay will wind up. |
SPREAD CLASS 5 subbase to a depth of 4 in. over entire patio area and 8 in. beyond. Measure down from guide strings to establish uniform height of subbase. |
Here's the ultimate outdoor project - it's high in sweat equity, doable in small chunks of time and offers great results. |
 |
